The Riesling Report

by Miran Kegl

Knocking on the door to a German Weingut. The door opens...
- YOU again! But...didn't you visit us last weekend just a few days ago??
- Yes, I did. Can I taste your wines again?
- But... Where have you been since?
- I had to return to Stockholm.
- Stockholm?! In Sweden? To do what??
- I live there. I had to work. At my school. I'm a teacher.
- You LIVE there?? But...you are HERE all the time!
- Yes, but only for the weekend.
- But what did you do once you left Germany on Sunday evening?
- Iactually caught the first early 6:30 am flight from Frankfurt Flughafen on Monday morning, landed at Stockholm Arlanda, jumped onto the express train and hurried to my first lecture. I made it with 5 minutes to spare. And now it's Friday late afternoon. And I'm here again, as you notice. :-)
- But...when did you arrive??
- Just now. I was still working in Stockholm today but after my last lecture this afternoon, I went straight to the airport, landed at Frankfurt, rented a car and now I'm here.
- But...you are INSANE!
- Yes, well, but...can I taste your wines now?
- Hum, I suppose so. (a long stare in disbelief) Ok, come in.
The winemaker opens the door wider and motions toward the table.
- Do you want to taste only some of the wines this time or all of them?
I look at the winemaker with a surprised expression in my face.
*Sigh*
- Okay-okay, I get it. ALL of them. Please take a seat and let me bring the first bottle. Again.

This was a common dialogue for many years. For a long time. Longer than I can remember. Of course, nowadays I don't need to introduce myself to most places. But looking back, if you'll ask the German winemakers who was the one featured in this dialogue example, you'll be surprised to hear how many will run their legs off to be the first one shouting out:
"It must be me! He's here all the time!"
I guess it says it all. My love for German wines in general and Riesling in particular, has carved a place in my heart for a long time now. Some would call it a passion, others would describe it as pure insanity. I could name names among the many German winemakers who would gladly and hurriedly sign a statement to the latter but I'm keeping it between us. If you happen to see a report where I have taken photos from every possible angle, wondering if the poor winemaker has been invaded by a vinous paparazzi, you'll get a hint who they are. :-)
What started as an initial curiousity, quickly developed into a passion. Combined with an ever increasing knowledge about wines from the diverse German wine regions, I fell in love with the landscape but above all, with the extraordinary people who are Guardians of these ancient vineyards. Some vines are ungrafted and old enough to tell you mind-boggling stories for those of you who care to listen. The changes they must have witnessed during their lifetime... Like no other grape, Riesling captures with utter transparency the sunlight, rain and Mother Nature's energy, interpreted throught the soil, providing our thirsty palate with the most hypnotic flavours. How could you possibly resist its magic?
For many years now, German winemakers have asked me why I don't publish something about Riesling because I'm often the first one knocking on their doors to taste the wines after fermentation. I have resisted. For a long time time. But I can wait no more. It's time.
The Riesling Report is a celebration of the quote "Wine Brings People Together" and above all, is my humble attempt to capture the many fascinating stories of and from extraordinary and passionate people who are currently the caretakers of so many truly magical vineyards planted with Riesling. One day, these winemakers will all be gone, as will I. My humble hope is, that when the responsibility has long since been shifted into the hands of the next generation, my stories and photos will still remain as memories as a tribute to an era long gone. With stories, voices and photos, capturing the laughs, the worries, and above all, the passion of these incredible people.